Step-by-Step Guide to Installing RER24205 in Your Redcat Vehicle
By Redcat Racing | Published: 2026-09-13
Category: How-to Guides
A practical, step-by-step walkthrough for fitting RER24205 to your Redcat vehicle, with torque tips, common mistakes to avoid, and supporting hardware checks.
Quick answer
Installing RER24205 in a Redcat vehicle is a bench job you can finish in about 20–40 minutes: remove the old or damaged part, clean the mounting area, test-fit RER24205, then secure it with fresh hardware and check for free movement before you power up. The most common failure is overtightening small screws, so snug them in stages and stop when the part is seated.

RER24205 is a direct-fit replacement for the matching position on your Redcat vehicle, so you do not need to modify the chassis or drill new holes. That said, how you install it matters as much as the part itself. Cross-threaded screws, pinched wires, and over-torqued fasteners cause more comebacks than worn-out parts do.
This guide walks through the full process in order, from pre-install checks to the final movement test. Keep your vehicle's exploded view handy if you have it, work on a clean bench, and sort hardware by size before you start. If any step feels forced, stop and re-check the alignment rather than pushing through.
What RER24205 is and why it matters
RER24205 is a replacement part in the Redcat catalog, and it is designed to fit the corresponding position on compatible Redcat vehicles without fabrication. Because it is a direct-fit item, the installation is mostly about careful removal and reassembly rather than modification. Treat it as a maintenance opportunity: while the old part is off, inspect the surrounding mounts, bearings, and fasteners for wear.
If your vehicle has been run hard, you may find that the hardware around RER24205 is stretched or rounded. Replacing small screws at the same time saves you a second teardown later. Redcat offers common sizes such as BS903-067, a 3x10mm countersunk hex machine thread screw set (12 pieces), which covers many chassis and mount points.

- Work on a magnetic tray or a light-colored towel so small screws do not roll away.
- Photograph the assembly before disassembly — it is faster than hunting for an exploded view.
Tools and parts to gather before you start
You need the correct hex drivers for your vehicle's hardware, a small flathead or pick for prying plastic clips, and a clean rag or brush for the mounting area. A threadlocker is optional; use only a tiny amount on metal-to-metal fasteners, and never on plastic threads. If you are replacing fasteners, match the original length and thread pitch exactly.
For general RC part installation, having a few common spares on hand prevents mid-job store runs. Redcat's 2.5x4mm cap head machine thread screws (8 pieces), part 050007 is not that screw, it is a rear hub carrier set — keep part numbers straight when ordering. A rear hub carrier set like 050007 is a different component; do not substitute it for RER24205.
- Check that your hex drivers are not rounded — a worn driver strips screw heads fast.
- Keep a small container for removed hardware so you can compare lengths during reassembly.
Step-by-step installation
Step 1: Disconnect the battery and remove the body. Step 2: Locate the old part and remove its fasteners in a cross pattern, supporting the assembly so it does not drop. Step 3: Clean the mounting surfaces and inspect for cracks or stripped threads. Step 4: Test-fit RER24205 without screws to confirm the holes line up and there is no binding.
Step 5: Install fasteners finger-tight first, then snug them in a cross pattern. Step 6: Reconnect linkages or driveshafts and check for free movement through the full suspension or steering travel. Step 7: Reconnect the battery, power up at low throttle, and listen for unusual noise. If anything binds, stop and re-check alignment before running further.
- Common mistake: tightening one screw fully before the others are started, which pulls the part off-center.
- Checkpoint: the part should sit flush with no gap and no need to force it.
Torque, threadlocker, and hardware tips
Small RC screws strip easily, so snug plus a quarter turn is usually enough for plastic and light metal. Use threadlocker sparingly on metal-to-metal fasteners only, and let it cure before running the vehicle. If a screw feels like it is cutting new threads, back it out and check the hole — you may have the wrong length or pitch.
When you replace hardware, use the correct type for the location. Countersunk screws like BS903-067 sit flush in countersunk holes, while cap head screws like those in the 2.5x4mm set are for locations that need a taller head. Mixing them up can cause interference with moving parts.
- Never use threadlocker on plastic threads — it can weaken the plastic.
- If a screw will not start, turn it counterclockwise until you feel it drop into the existing thread, then tighten.
Post-install checks and first run
Before the first run, cycle the suspension or steering by hand and watch for interference. Check that no wires are pinched and that the part does not contact the body or tires. Do a low-speed test on a smooth surface, then re-check screw tightness after a few minutes of running — new parts often settle slightly.
If you notice vibration or unusual noise, stop and inspect. A part that is installed correctly should not change the vehicle's handling in a negative way. If it does, re-check the alignment and hardware before assuming the part is defective.
- Re-torque fasteners after the first run — this catches settling before it becomes a failure.
- Keep a log of part numbers and install dates for future maintenance.
Installation steps at a glance
- Prep and disconnect: Remove the body, disconnect the battery, and photograph the assembly before you touch any fasteners. Checkpoint: the vehicle is powered down and you have a clear reference photo.
- Remove the old part: Loosen fasteners in a cross pattern and support the assembly so it does not drop or bind. Common mistake: letting the assembly hang by one screw, which can bend mounts.
- Clean and inspect: Brush away dirt and check mounting holes for cracks or stripped threads before fitting the new part. Checkpoint: holes are clean and threads are intact.
- Test-fit RER24205: Slide the part into place without screws and confirm the holes line up with no force required. Common mistake: forcing a misaligned part and cross-threading the first screw.
- Secure fasteners: Start all screws finger-tight, then snug them in a cross pattern. Use threadlocker sparingly on metal-to-metal only. Checkpoint: the part sits flush with no gap and screws are snug, not gorilla-tight.
- Reconnect and test: Reattach linkages or driveshafts, check for free movement by hand, then do a low-speed test run. If anything binds or makes noise, stop and re-check alignment before running further.
Redcat parts that support this install
- BS903-067: 3x10mm Countersunk Hex Machine Thread Screws (12pcs) A common size for chassis and mount points; having spares prevents a second teardown if you strip a screw during installation.
- 050007: Rear Hub Carriers(Aluminum)(Blue)(1pr) An aluminum rear hub carrier set is a different component from RER24205; keep part numbers straight so you order the correct replacement.
- RER41394: 2.5x4mm Cap Head Machine Thread Screws (8pc) Cap head screws suit locations that need a taller head; do not substitute them for countersunk screws in flush-mount holes.
Installing RER24205 is a straightforward job when you work methodically: disconnect power, remove the old part, clean and test-fit, then snug hardware in stages. Keep spare screws like BS903-067 on hand, avoid overtightening, and re-check everything after the first run. If you hit binding or stripped threads, stop and fix the root cause before you drive.



