Redcat Racing

How to Replace RER13671 in Your Redcat Vehicle

How to Replace RER13671 in Your Redcat Vehicle

By Redcat Racing | Published: 2026-09-13

Category: How-to Guides

A step-by-step guide to swapping RER13671 in your Redcat vehicle, from parts check to final test run, with the fit checks and mistakes that matter most.

Quick answer

Replacing rer13670-1-7493d74807671d627ada65f0-1551681">RER13671 is a bench job: confirm the part number, match the new piece to the old one, remove the old part without forcing anything, install the replacement with the hardware snug rather than overtightened, and test at low speed before a full run. The swap usually takes under an hour and needs only basic hand tools.

RER13671 is a specific Redcat part number, so the first job is making sure you actually have the right component in hand before you take anything apart. Once the part is confirmed, the replacement itself is straightforward: remove, compare, install, and test.

This guide walks through the swap in order and flags the mistakes that turn a 30-minute repair into a stripped screw or a return. It also covers the related parts worth checking while the vehicle is already on the bench.

Before you start: confirm the part and set up your bench

Lay out the new part next to the old one before disassembly. Compare mounting points, overall length, and any hardware included. If the two pieces do not match in shape or hole spacing, stop and re-check the part number rather than forcing the install.

Work on a light-colored towel or tray so small screws and locknuts do not roll away. Photograph the assembly from two angles before you remove anything; those photos are the fastest reference if you lose track of hardware order during reassembly.

  • Checkpoint: new and old parts match in mounting pattern before you loosen a single screw.
  • Common mistake: starting disassembly before confirming the part number, then discovering the mismatch mid-job.

Remove the old part without damaging surrounding components

Support the vehicle so the wheels are off the ground and the suspension is unloaded. Remove fasteners in a cross pattern rather than around the circle, which reduces the chance of binding on the last screw. Keep hardware grouped by location, not dumped in one pile.

If a fastener resists, stop and check for thread lock or a hidden set screw. Forcing a stuck screw is the most common way a simple rc part replacement turns into a stripped head or a cracked mounting ear.

  • Checkpoint: all fasteners removed and bagged by location before the old part comes free.
  • Common mistake: prying the old part out while a fastener is still partially threaded.

Install the replacement and set hardware correctly

Seat the new part fully by hand first, then start every fastener by hand before reaching for a driver. Tighten in a cross pattern, snug only. Over-tightening crushes bushings and can crack plastic mounts, which is a much bigger repair than the one you just did.

If the part uses locknuts, replace them rather than reusing flattened ones. A fresh locknut costs very little and is the difference between a joint that stays put and one that backs out on the first run.

  • Checkpoint: the part moves freely through its intended range with no binding before you tighten fully.
  • Common mistake: tightening one fastener fully before the others are started, which pulls the part off-center.

Test the repair before your next full run

Set the vehicle on blocks and cycle the steering and suspension by hand, then power up at low speed. Listen for new noises and watch for the part shifting under load. A two-minute bench test catches most installation errors before they become trail damage.

After the first short run, re-check fastener tightness. New parts settle slightly, and a quick re-snug is normal redcat vehicle maintenance rather than a sign of a bad install.

  • Checkpoint: no binding, no new noise, and no visible movement at the mounting points after a low-speed run.
  • Common mistake: skipping the re-check after the first run and losing a fastener on the second.

Related parts worth checking while you are in there

Once the vehicle is apart, inspect the parts that share load with RER13671. Worn shock shafts, stretched links, and tired hardware are easier to replace now than after everything is buttoned back up.

For a 1:10 lowrider build like the Redcat SixtyFour, a USB balance charger such as RER44284 keeps the battery pack in shape between runs, and it is worth confirming your charging routine while the car is on the bench.

RER44284
RER44284
  • Checkpoint: any part that moves with RER13671 inspected and replaced if worn before reassembly.

The RER13671 replacement steps at a glance

  1. Confirm the part number: Match the new RER13671 against the old part and the parts diagram before disassembly. Checkpoint: mounting pattern and dimensions match.
  2. Support and disassemble: Lift the vehicle so the suspension is unloaded, then remove fasteners in a cross pattern and bag hardware by location. Checkpoint: no fastener is still threaded when the old part comes free.
  3. Install the replacement: Start all fasteners by hand, then tighten in a cross pattern to snug only, using fresh locknuts where fitted. Checkpoint: the part moves freely with no binding.
  4. Bench test and re-check: Cycle the suspension by hand, run at low speed, then re-snug fasteners after the first short run. Checkpoint: no new noise, no movement at the mounts.

Parts that pair with this repair

  • RER19370: F/R Shock Shafts W/ Locknuts (2pcs), catalog price USD 6.50. If the suspension is already apart, worn shock shafts are cheap to swap now instead of rebuilding the same area twice.
  • RER22349: Fr Lower Links (83mm) (2pcs), catalog price USD 6.50. Front lower links share load with suspension components, so checking them during the same bench session saves a second teardown.
  • RER44284: USB Balance Charger 2S with a 2A charge rate, catalog price USD 7.50. A balance charger keeps 2S packs healthy between runs, which matters if your repair involves electrical connectors or battery access.
  • Redcat SixtyFour RC Car - 1:10 1964 Chevrolet Impala Hopping Lowrider: 1:10 scale on-road lowrider hopper with an electric brushed motor, catalog price USD 275.00, available in three color options. On-road lowriders put different loads on suspension and steering parts than off-road trucks, so match replacement parts to the platform you actually drive.

Replacing RER13671 comes down to confirming the part, working patiently on the bench, and testing before you commit to a full run. Do those three things and the swap stays a routine repair instead of a rebuild.

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