Redcat Spare Parts Checklist: What to Keep on Hand

Quick answer

Keep a small core kit: fasteners and hardware, one set of ball bearings, a front C-hub set, upper shock mounts, a rear sway bar set, and a Z rack pushrod. That covers the most common wear and crash points on a Redcat vehicle. Add a center gearbox only if you run high power or jump often. Buy one spare of each first, then double up on whatever you actually break twice.

Most Redcat owners do not need a wall of parts. They need the handful of pieces that end a bash session early. A rear sway bar that snaps, a C-hub that cracks in a hard hit, or a bearing that seizes after a muddy run will park the truck just as fast as a blown motor.

This checklist is built around real catalog parts and real failure points, not a generic list. Use the decision rules to decide what earns a spot in your box, what you can skip, and when buying two makes more sense than buying one.

What actually belongs in a Redcat spare parts kit

A useful kit has three layers. First, consumables: bearings, hardware, and anything that wears from dirt and heat. Second, crash parts: suspension arms, hubs, shock mounts, and steering links that take impact. Third, driveline parts: gearbox internals and drivetrain pieces that fail under power or after a bad landing.

Start with one spare per layer. If you race or bash weekly, add a second bearing set and a second set of crash parts. The goal is to finish the day, not to rebuild the whole truck from a toolbox.

• Store spares in a labeled box by system: suspension, driveline, hardware.
• Keep the part number on the bag so reordering is fast.
• Replace worn bearings before they chew up a shaft or housing.

Decision rules for how many spares to stock

Buy one spare when the part is cheap, easy to swap, and unlikely to fail twice in one session. Buy two when the part is a known weak point, sits in a high-impact area, or requires disassembly you do not want to repeat. Skip the spare entirely when the part is model-specific, expensive, and rarely fails.

A simple rule: if a failure costs you more than 20 minutes of track or trail time, carry a spare. If it costs five minutes and a dollar, carry two.

• One spare: low-stress parts on a lightly used vehicle.
• Two spares: high-impact or high-wear parts on a vehicle you run hard.
• No spare: parts that almost never fail and cost more than a session is worth.

Fit guidance before you order

Spare parts only help if they fit your exact Redcat model and version. The catalog listings here give the part name and quantity, but not the full model fitment list. Before ordering, confirm the part number against your vehicle's manual or exploded view, and check whether your truck uses the same revision as the listing.

If you are unsure, match the part number, not the photo. Two parts can look identical and still differ in length, thread, or mounting width. When a listing does not state a specification you need, treat that as a gap to verify with the model manual rather than a detail to assume.

• Match the part number to your model's parts diagram.
• Check quantity per pack so you order enough for both sides.
• When in doubt, measure the old part before buying the new one.

Where to spend and where to save

Spend on parts that protect expensive assemblies. Bearings, shock mounts, and C-hubs are inexpensive and prevent damage to shafts, shocks, and suspension arms. Save on cosmetic or rarely stressed parts until you actually need them.

A center gearbox is the one item worth having on the shelf if you run high power or big jumps, because a failure there usually ends the day and the teardown is long. For a stock, lightly used truck, it can wait.

• Prioritize parts that fail often and cost little.
• Delay big-ticket spares until your driving style justifies them.
• Reassess your kit after every few runs and drop what never gets used.

Decision rules for your Redcat spare parts inventory

• If you run stock power on flat ground: Carry bearings, shock mounts, and a C-hub set. Skip the center gearbox until you actually stress the driveline. Start with the cheap, high-frequency parts.
• If you bash jumps or run high power: Add a center gearbox and a second bearing set. These are the failures most likely to end a session and require a long teardown. Spend where a failure costs the most time.
• If you are unsure about fitment: Verify the part number against your model's manual before ordering. The catalog facts here list part name and quantity, not full model fitment. Match the number, not the picture.
• If a part breaks twice in a season: Buy two next time and check for an underlying cause, such as a bent arm or worn bearing that is stressing the part. Repeat failures are a signal, not bad luck.

Catalog parts that earn a place in the kit

• 18033: 5x10x4mm Ball Bearings (8pcs) A multi-pack covers several bearing locations at once, so one order can refresh the most common wear points.
• RER12439: Front C-Hub Set (1pr) C-hubs take impact in front-end crashes; a pair lets you replace both sides in one repair.
• 510128: Upper Shock Mounts(2pcs) Shock mounts crack under hard landings, and a two-piece pack matches a typical front or rear pair.
• RER12620: Rear Sway Bar Set(1set) Sway bars bend or snap in rollovers, and a complete set avoids hunting for individual pieces.

Who this checklist fits

Best for

• Owners who want a small, practical kit that covers common breakage points
• Drivers who bash or trail-run regularly and want to finish the day
• New Redcat owners building a first spare parts inventory

Not for

• Collectors who store vehicles and rarely run them
• Owners looking for a full rebuild kit rather than session-saving spares
• Anyone who has not confirmed part numbers against their model manual

Build the kit around what actually breaks on your truck, not around a generic list. Start with bearings, C-hubs, shock mounts, a sway bar set, and a pushrod, then add a center gearbox only if your driving style demands it. Verify fitment by part number, restock what you use, and drop what you never touch.