How to Replace 70127 in Your Redcat Vehicle: Step-by-Step

Quick answer

Replacing 70127 is a bench job: lift the vehicle, remove the fasteners and any arm or linkage blocking the part, pull the old 70127, then fit the new one and set the fasteners snug before tightening. The step most owners skip is checking the parts around 70127 for wear at the same time, which is why the same failure often comes back.

If you are searching for how to replace 70127, you are probably partway through a repair rather than planning one. That is normal. Most 70127 swaps start because something feels loose, binds, or has visibly failed after a run, and the goal is to get the vehicle driving straight again without guessing at the cause.

This guide walks through the job in order, from setup to a first test run. It also covers the checks that decide whether the replacement lasts, because a new 70127 fitted to worn surrounding parts will fail again quickly. Where a specification is not listed in the product data, this guide says so rather than assuming a number.

Before you start: tools, space, and a parts check

Work on a clean bench with the vehicle on a stand or block so the wheels are off the ground and you can see the whole assembly. You need the hex drivers that match your vehicle's fasteners, a small tray for screws, and good light. Take a photo of the assembly before you touch it; on a Redcat vehicle, several fasteners look identical but are different lengths, and mixing them up is the most common cause of stripped threads.

Before removing anything, check the parts that move with 70127. If a suspension arm is cracked or a ball is worn flat, replacing 70127 alone will not fix the handling. Have those parts on hand so the vehicle is not stuck apart for days. If you are unsure which parts are worn, compare them side by side; a worn ball or arm usually shows a visible flat spot or a loose fit.

• Keep fasteners in order as you remove them; a magnetic tray or labelled cups prevents mix-ups.
• Do not force a fastener that stops turning; back it out and check for cross-threading before continuing.

Removing the old 70127

Remove the fasteners holding 70127 in place, then separate it from the arm, link, or mount it attaches to. If it will not come free, check for a second fastener or a retaining clip you have missed rather than prying at it. Prying bends the surrounding parts, and a bent arm will make the new 70127 sit at the wrong angle.

Once the old part is out, look at how it failed. A clean break, a rounded hole, or a worn ball all tell you something different about the cause. If the failure is wear rather than impact, check the opposite side of the vehicle too; the two sides usually wear at a similar rate, and replacing only one side often leads to a second repair shortly after.

• Clean the mounting area before fitting new parts; grit trapped under a new part causes it to sit crooked.
• If the old 70127 came out with the fastener still attached, separate them before reinstalling to avoid cross-threading.

Fitting the new 70127 and setting fasteners

Fit the new 70127 into position and start fasteners by hand. Thread them in until they are snug, then tighten in a cross pattern if there is more than one. On plastic parts, stop as soon as the fastener seats; overtightening crushes the plastic and creates a loose fit that feels like a worn part. If a fastener spins without tightening, the thread is stripped and needs attention before you continue.

Check the movement of the assembly by hand through its full range. It should move freely without binding and without noticeable play. If it binds, loosen the fasteners slightly and re-seat the part. If it has play, check whether a ball or bushing is worn. This is the point where a small adjustment saves a second teardown.

• Tighten plastic-mounted fasteners in stages rather than all at once.
• Move the suspension or linkage by hand before installing wheels or body panels.

Checking related parts while you are in there

The area around 70127 usually contains a suspension arm, balls, and a servo horn or linkage. If any of these are worn, the new part will not hold its setting. Suspension balls are a common culprit: a ball worn out of round lets the arm move under load even when the fasteners are tight. Replacing them at the same time is cheap insurance compared with another teardown.

If your vehicle uses a servo horn in the same linkage, check its splines for rounding. A horn that has slipped once will slip again, and the steering will not hold center no matter how carefully you set it. The parts listed below are the ones most often replaced alongside 70127 on Redcat vehicles, and they are worth checking before you close the job.

• Replace worn balls in pairs; one new ball against a worn one wears faster.
• If steering still will not center after the swap, recheck the servo horn before adjusting the radio.

First test run and what to listen for

Set the vehicle on the ground and drive slowly for the first minute. Listen for clicking or scraping and feel for steering that pulls or wanders. A click that follows wheel speed usually means a fastener is loose or a part is not seated. Stop and check before continuing; a few minutes now prevents a bigger failure later.

After the run, recheck the fasteners you touched. New parts settle slightly, and a fastener that was snug on the bench can loosen after the first run. This second check is quick and is the difference between a repair that lasts and one that comes back.

• Do the first run at low speed on flat ground rather than jumping straight into a full session.
• Re-torque fasteners after the first run, then check again after the second.

70127 replacement steps

1. Prepare the bench and photograph the assembly: Put the vehicle on a stand, gather the correct hex drivers, and take a photo before removing anything so fastener positions are recorded. Mistake to avoid: working on a dirty surface, which lets grit into the assembly.
2. Remove the fasteners holding 70127: Take out the fasteners and separate 70127 from the arm, link, or mount. Do not pry if it will not move; look for a hidden fastener or clip first. Checkpoint: the old part should come out without bending anything around it.
3. Inspect the surrounding parts: Look at the arm, balls, and linkage for cracks, flat spots, or play. Replace worn parts now rather than after the vehicle is reassembled. Mistake to avoid: fitting a new part against a worn ball, which causes the same looseness to return.
4. Fit the new 70127 and start fasteners by hand: Seat the new part, thread fasteners by hand until snug, then tighten in a cross pattern. Stop when the fastener seats on plastic parts. Checkpoint: the assembly should move freely by hand with no binding and no noticeable play.
5. Run a slow first test and recheck fasteners: Drive at low speed on flat ground, listen for clicking, then re-torque the fasteners you touched after the run. Mistake to avoid: skipping the post-run check, which is when loose fasteners usually show up.

Parts that commonly pair with a 70127 repair

• RER26512: Front Upper Arm Set (2pcs) If the upper arm around 70127 is cracked or its mounting holes are worn, replacing it as a pair keeps the geometry even side to side.
• RER14945: Suspension Arm Set (Plastic) (1 set) A cracked suspension arm lets the new part move under load, so the repair will not hold until the arm is replaced.
• 70625: Suspension Balls (5.9mm) (Long) (6pcs) Worn balls are a common reason a freshly fitted part still feels loose; replacing them restores a tight, predictable fit.
• RER12089: 25T aluminum servo horn supplied as a single piece, listed for vehicles including ASCENT FUSION, COE CUSTOM HAULER, EVEREST ASCENT, and WENDIGO If your steering will not hold center after the swap, a rounded servo horn is a likely cause; an aluminum 25T horn is a direct-fit replacement for the listed vehicles.

Replacing 70127 is a straightforward bench job once you know the order: remove, inspect, fit, check movement, then test at low speed. The repair lasts when the parts around 70127 are sound, so treat the inspection step as part of the job rather than an optional extra.